I was surprised when a friend described my newsletter as ‘travel writing’. I write about walking, which is a kind of travel I suppose. But I tend to think of travel writers going beyond the sort of local wandering that I do: they are venturing into unknown landscapes, probably crossing water, and certainly endangering themselves in some sense or other. Women travel writers from the past intrigue me the most, with their long skirts and fearlessness and ability to step outside of the worlds that contained them. I am especially fond of those exploring new places later in life. I have a writerly crush on Freya Stark, who lived to 100, seeing most of the twentieth century. She spent her middle years seeking out adventure by visiting and recording the stories of the people of Iran, Syria, Turkey, Afghanistan. Amongst all the incredible Victorian female explorers, I have a soft spot for Adela Breton. She lived in respectable comfort in Bath until she was in her forties (and her parents had died), at which point she set off to journey around Mexico on a horse, making exquisite sketches and archaeologically-significant reproductions of ancient artefacts and wall paintings.
But on International Women’s Day this week, I turned back to Beatrix Potter, who I have always admired and respected for her children’s books (Squirrel Nutkin is a favourite), but more so for her general entrepreneurship and committed relationship to the countryside. In her forties she turned to fell-farming in Cumbria, specialising in the indigenous sheep of the area, and became interested in stewardship and conservation, eventually partnering with the National Trust (which was co-founded by the social reformer, Octavia Hill, another formidable woman who had particular passion for improving access to nature amongst the socially deprived). Potter also had a special interest in walking around the Lake District, joining the Commons, Open Spaces and Footpaths Preservation Society (to help ensure access to common ground and green spaces for the wellbeing of the public). Even in old age, with her own health failing, the outdoors pulled at her – she wrote to her good friend Caroline in March 1943 (the year she died):
I have failed in strength more than people know the last two years. Most times it has been an effort to walk to Hill Top. I am so glad I was feeling particularly well last week; and have seen the snowdrops again. (Beatrix Potter’s Letters)
Travel writing doesn’t have to be about globe-trotting or risking life and limb in dangerous environments, it seems. It can be quiet, gentle, and concerned with what is on the doorstep. It can continue into old age and emerge from within. I love Stark’s words anticipating the old age of an explorer in Perseus in the Wind (1948):
Good days are to be gathered like sunshine in grapes, to be trodden and bottled into wine and kept for age to sip at ease beside [her] fire. If the traveller has vintaged well [s]he need trouble to wander no longer; the ruby moments glow in [her] glass at will. [S]he can still feel the spring in [her] step, and the wind on [her] face, though [s]he sit in shelter. (Perseus in the Wind)
All these women had certain advantages, even in the more constrained eras during which they lived, experiencing the art and culture of Europe as children through the cosmopolitan leanings of their parents or benefiting from upper-middle-class opportunities. They were all also white. I would like to find out more about non-white women travel writers, and have set that as a task for this year (all suggestions welcome). As far as International Women’s Day inspiration goes, Black Girls Hike is a fantastic venture for today’s travellers: they aim to provide a safe space for Black women to explore the outdoors. Check them out, and also let me know which women travel writers you have discovered and enjoyed.
I like that you highlight the lives of wise women. I recommend Joy Harjo’s Conflict Resolution for Holy Beings. Walking is a theme- walking for healing for self, people and land after so many times walking as forced removal.
Also, Braiding Sweetgrass by Robin Wall Kimmerer to walk and live in reciprocity with the earth.
Finally, Americana by Chimamandah Adichie is a amazing book by an amazing writer and fits with your traveling theme.